This is the story of a long-distance walk through Greece from the beech forests and forgotten lakes on the northern border, through the central mountains and gorges, to the olive groves of the southern Peloponnese. We started in early summer, when snow still shone on the peaks and the high pastures sparkled with flowers. We finished in November, among the bustle of the olive harvest.
The two of us are both over 60, not especially fit. We’re amblers and slackpackers, always ready to be diverted by an old lady inviting us for a coffee or a shepherd wanting to gossip. We chatted about The Crisis: how the young were struggling to find jobs, and their elders had reverted to a life of self-sufficiency. Sometimes there was a guesthouse in the larger villages, but often enough we camped in the mountains, the village square or by the church. My long-forgotten Greek slowly came back.
Greece is better known for its idyllic beaches than as a hiking destination. I hope that this website will encourage others to explore its wild and beautiful interior. There are three main sections. For day to day experiences, photos, routes, and distances, see Way to Go. The posts are grouped in stages, from North to South. Maps are shown separately. For information on camping, what we took with us, finding water and whether we got blisters, see Purely Practical. And if you want to read more on The Crisis, slow travel, or wild flowers, see Waypoints. You can see more photos of our trip on flickr.