Author Archives: Jane Laurie

“Thalassa! Thalassa! The sea! The sea!” went up the cry from the Greek army, stranded deep in Persia. They had struggled through the snows of winter, attacked on all sides, until at last they saw the sea shining on the … Continue reading →

Our first stop the next morning was Meligalas, another ordinary little town with a violent history. We had our breakfast coffee in an ultra-modern coffee bar, all brown vinyl, shiny chrome and loud music. We suspected nothing of past horrors, … Continue reading →

The single track Peloponnese railway from Athens to Kalamata closed five years ago. I’d travelled on it way back in the late 1970s, when I first came to Kalamata. It took all day, weaving in and out of the mountains … Continue reading →

In the early morning mists, the flume from the power station had looked almost romantic, towering up from the great plateau of Megalopolis. It was an idyllic start to the walk, too – down to the old bridge below Karitena, … Continue reading →

Cyclamen spilled down the banks of the Lousios, prolific as the primrose drifts of my childhood. Below, the fast flowing waters of the river gleamed pale turquoise.  An unforgettable sight. We had lingered late at Ancient Gortys, watching the sun … Continue reading →