Category Archives: Diakopto to Levidhi

Vlacherna to Levidhi: Downpour

We sat in the cafe and watched the rain as we drank our breakfast coffee. There had been sheet lightning and a steady downpour all night, and we were grateful not to have had to camp. Night-time temperatures near freezing … Continue reading

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Dhara to Vlacherna: Happy Winter!

When we started walking, people in the shops and cafes would wish each other “Happy  Summer”, just as we’d say Happy Christmas or Happy Easter. Now they wished each other “Happy Winter!” In the little cafe at Kamenitsa, the stove … Continue reading

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Kleitoria to Dhara: On the trail again

The plan was to reach Kleitoria by early afternoon, then head off straightaway, camping somewhere down the valley. Alan was with me again, but we’d decided not to walk from Ano Mousounitsa. The weather forecast was mixed, with serious flooding … Continue reading

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Planitero to Klitoria: Why are you alone?

I’d been walking alone ever since Diakopto. Alan was back in Kalamata, still feeling bruised and fragile, waiting till he could have his stitches out. The weather had been tantalisingly beautiful, and I was keen to make the most of … Continue reading

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Kalavryta to Planitero: Lost in the holly oak

Holly oak is an improbable bush, with acorns nestling among shiny green holly leaves. It forms an impenetrable  and prickly scrub across the dry mountains of the Peloponnese, encroaching on pasture and making footpaths impassable. Even where it has been … Continue reading

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Diakopto to Kalavryta: Mind the train!

I sat among the flowers at the entrance to the tunnel and waited for the train. The E4 followed the single railway track from Diakopto, and and there wasn’t much room in the tunnels, on the  bridges or in places … Continue reading

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