Category Archives: Kastoria to Konitsa

Palioseli to Konitsa: Cashpoint interlude

To the South rose the magnificent peaks of Timfi, our next destination. But we had a problem: we were running out of money. It’s a cash economy in the villages and people don’t take credit cards. The last cashpoint had … Continue reading

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Aghia Paraskevi to Palioseli: The Dragon Lake

Long, long ago dragons lived in the alpine lakes of Greece, and whiled away the time throwing rocks at each other. You can still see the rocks today as you clamber up to the Smolikas Dragon Lake, although the only … Continue reading

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Triantafilia to Aghia Paraskevi: Peaches

Blue skies and sunshine the next morning made up for the storms of the night before. It was incredibly peaceful, as we sat outside the sheep shelter, drinking our morning coffee and watching the ladybirds on the glistening wet grass. … Continue reading

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Kefalohori to Triantafilia: Thunderstorm

There were quite a few scary moments on our walk: encounters with ferocious dogs, suspected bears, precipitous paths and scree slopes. But I think what frightened me most were the thunderstorms, spectacular though they were. The usual advice is to … Continue reading

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Aetomilitsa to Kefalohori: Cars and cats

Kefalohori, down in the valley just off the tarred road to Konitsa, was very different from the summertime villages of Grammos and Aetomilitsa. There were saloon cars as well as pick-ups parked beside the modern whitewashed houses, with their meticulous … Continue reading

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Grammos to Aetomilitsa: Snow

Snow covered the track, drifting downwards over the scree, and with a rocky cliff and more snow above. It was frozen hard and very slippery.  I’m a complete coward when it comes to this kind of thing. I hate heights … Continue reading

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Slimnitsa to Grammos: Last stronghold of the Left

The Grammos mountains witnessed the last stand of the Left at the end of the civil war in 1949. The scars of napalm can still be seen on the denuded hillsides, and the forests were sown with minefields. Like Prespa, … Continue reading

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Dipotamia to Slimnitsa: The legacy of war

We were now heading into the Grammos mountains, beyond the well-established villages on the tarred road. The peaks ahead were streaked with snow, and below on our right were the red roofs of an Albanian village. By the time we … Continue reading

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Kastoria to Dipotamia: Bouzouki evening

Tables and chairs were set out around the walls of the little taverna in Dipotamia, while the band was setting up at the end. The cafe owner was tending the barbecue on the porch, looking out at the torrential rain, … Continue reading

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