Category Archives: Konitsa to Metsovo

Flenga Lakes to Metsovo: Tired and hungry

We only had a little bread, cheese and lentils left for breakfast the next morning. I was fine with lentils for breakfast, but they didn’t measure up to Alan’s breakfast standards and he made do with coffee. My camera had … Continue reading

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Vovousa to the Flenga Lakes: Bear River

In our room in Vovousa, there were posters of Bear River (Arkoudhorema), with beautiful waterfalls – and bears, of course. But we’d been told by some of the Gamila hikers that the bridge further up had been washed away, and … Continue reading

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Skamneli to Vovousa: Tough people!

It had been a long day, and we were setting up the tent amidst orchids in a meadow just below the track. Our food supplies were running low, as we hadn’t found a proper shop since Konitsa, over a week … Continue reading

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Kapesovo to Skamneli: Summer heat

Suddenly,  it was summer. As we came down from the rocky saddle into Tsepelovo, the owners of the first house in the village had just arrived and were hanging blankets and rugs out to air. Later, we saw the husband … Continue reading

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Monodendri to Kapesovo: Place of Tears

Pinned to a tree on the cobbled path below Vitsa was a piece of paper. Coming closer, I could see it was a poem. This is a rough translation. It wasn’t just the violence of the  war and the civil … Continue reading

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Vikos to Monodendri: Down the gorge

The Klima Springs were idyllic as a menthol cigarette ad: white rocks, clear green pools, pebble beaches and shade from the willow trees. We put two cans of coke in the stream to cool for lunch, and settled down for … Continue reading

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Astrakas refuge to Vikos village: Tourist country

The Astrakas refuge marked the start of very different country. We were now in the Zagoria , tourist territory, flagged up in the guide books, with information on what to see and where to stay. The footpaths had been well-waymarked ever … Continue reading

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The Astrakas Refuge: The Old Ways and the New

The typical Greek mountain refuge is locked, barred and vandal-proof, and only opens for groups. If you’re lucky, there may be a verandah for shelter in bad weather, and there’s usually a water source and a spectacular view. The Astrakas … Continue reading

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Stomiou Monastery to Astrakas refuge: To the alpine meadows

It was an idyllic morning, with bright sunshine once again. As we drank our breakfast coffee, we could make out two deer very faintly on the far promontory. The cuckoo, whose call had accompanied us since Florina, was already hard at … Continue reading

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Konitsa to Stomiou Monastery: Camping among the crags

Finding a good campsite is always a bit of a gamble. You want somewhere flat, of course, so you don’t keep sliding downhill all night. It needs to be close to water for cooking and washing. It needs to be … Continue reading

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