Category Archives: Levidhi to Kalamata

Aris to Kalamata: Thalassa!

“Thalassa! Thalassa! The sea! The sea!” went up the cry from the Greek army, stranded deep in Persia. They had struggled through the snows of winter, attacked on all sides, until at last they saw the sea shining on the … Continue reading

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Zevgolateio to Aris: On the banks of the Pamissos

Our first stop the next morning was Meligalas, another ordinary little town with a violent history. We had our breakfast coffee in an ultra-modern coffee bar, all brown vinyl, shiny chrome and loud music. We suspected nothing of past horrors, … Continue reading

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Chrani to Zevgolateio: The abandoned railway

The single track Peloponnese railway from Athens to Kalamata closed five years ago. I’d travelled on it way back in the late 1970s, when I first came to Kalamata. It took all day, weaving in and out of the mountains … Continue reading

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Karitena to Chrani: Escape from the coal mines

In the early morning mists, the flume from the power station had looked almost romantic, towering up from the great plateau of Megalopolis. It was an idyllic start to the walk, too – down to the old bridge below Karitena, … Continue reading

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Ancient Gortys to Karitena: Flowers of autumn

Cyclamen spilled down the banks of the Lousios, prolific as the primrose drifts of my childhood. Below, the fast flowing waters of the river gleamed pale turquoise.  An unforgettable sight. We had lingered late at Ancient Gortys, watching the sun … Continue reading

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Dimitsana to Ancient Gortys: Camp at Ancient Gortys

At the Stemnitsa turning, below the Prodromou monastery, we stopped to argue. It’s trickier reaching a consensus on where to stay the night when there are three of you. Alan wanted to head for the hotels and tavernas of Stemnitsa, … Continue reading

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Alonistena to Dimitsana: The Long Way Round

It had been a long day and the sun had already set when we reached the little village of Zigovhisti. I’d pulled a tendon or something in my knee the previous day and it was still painful, even with a … Continue reading

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Levidhi to Alonistena: Into the Mainalon

We reached the Ostrakina refuge mid-morning, after a steep three hour climb up through misty pines and pastures.  The door was unlocked and inside a fire was blazing, but there was nobody around. No matter. It was cold. I was … Continue reading

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