The E4 to Delphi 2019
This April we’re off to Ano Mousounitsa in the Vardhousia massif with plans to walk through the Ghiona mountains and the Parnassos national park, to Delphi and the Corinth Canal. We’ll also do some shorter walks in the Taygetos area, near Kalamata and Kardamili.
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Category Archives: Metsovo to Mesochora
Kalamata interlude: Don’t walk, drive!
Somehow, our relaxed summer on the beach triggered health problems we’d never encountered while hiking. Alan’s knees swelled up, and were so painful he could hardly walk. I went with him to see a specialist, who took an X-ray and … Continue reading
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Metsovo to the Monastery: Caught on video
We laid out our sleeping bags in the porch of the Monastery of the Lifegiving Spring (Zoodochos Pigi). It had started to rain as we left Metsovo that afternoon, so we were glad to sleep under shelter, and where the … Continue reading
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Monastery to Peristeri: Dogs and shepherds
“You shouldn’t walk through this area,” warned Sotiris, a genial Vlach shepherd with a comfortable paunch, as he passed us in his pick-up. “The dogs are very fierce, and the shepherds further on are Romanians, who don’t control them properly. … Continue reading
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Peristeri to Kalarites: Romanian cooking?
Kalarites was one of the prettiest, most unspoilt villages we stayed in. The road only reached it twenty years ago, and we could still see the old mule track snaking up from the valley below. But even better, the … Continue reading
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Kalarites to Matsouki: The Monastery Committee
“Push through the tunnel of bushes on all fours….” ran the description in the Mountains of Greece guide. We were a little nervous about the path to Matsouki, and nobody in Kalarites seemed to have been that way for a … Continue reading
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Matsouki to Gardiki: Up into the peaks again
One thing I love about walking in the mountains is the ever-changing scenery from the wild open peaks to the wooded valleys and clear streams below. It was a tough day’s walk to Gardiki, climbing up over the pass at … Continue reading
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Gardiki to Gournes: No coffee, no lunch
The cafe owner at Gardiki had promised he would be open for a breakfast coffee in the morning. So we sat at the table in the square sorting out our stuff, and waited. And waited. We wanted to stock up … Continue reading
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Gournes to Mesochora: The Dam
Ahead of us loomed the Mesochora dam: the mountain slopes were scarred with roads and tunnels. It’s a breathtakingly ambitious project, funded by the EU, to provide hydro-electricity as well as irrigation to the plains of Thessaly. Yet there had … Continue reading
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